1. The Ecuadorian roads are hugely improved. As you drive the main routes between towns and cities, you no longer have to fear that a big pothole will suddenly loom in front of you with little chance for you to dodge it. The drivers are a bit less insane. The government is working hard through a public ad campaign to get drivers to slow down, not pass on curves, not drive drunk, and put their children in the back seat. As we neared the coast, one sign said, "La playa no se va a ningun lado - no corras!" which means, "The beach isn't going anywhere - slow down!" The sign in the photo below says, translated into English, "Daddy, keep me safe, don't speed!!!"
2. The latest global initiatives to improve the world are seen here in various manifestations. These include programs that are successfully increasing life expectancy, reducing maternal mortality, and increasing literacy rates. They also are reflected in the fact that some Ecuadorians are getting into organic food, permaculture, green construction, and natural birth. Natalie is participating actively in the latter as a trainee at a clinic that specializes in water births. Here she is in her doula uniform.
The government has a big "buy local" campaign going. Here is a photo of the many "primero Ecuador" billboards they have put up. "When you travel, first Ecuador." Other billboards promote locally produced food and locally made clothing.
3. Two decades ago, Helen and Gene still sent us lists of what to bring from the U.S. - items that could not be found in Ecuador at all or for a reasonable price. Now we send them lists of what to bring from Ecuador to the U.S. In Quito you can buy anything. The mall we pass through to walk from our home to Helen and Gene's, the Quicentro, is expanding (see construction signs on the left-hand side of the photo) and has a lot of business, despite the presence of two other big shopping centers/malls within 3 blocks of this one.
Caleb thought these modified names of chain stores was hilarious:
4. On a less cheerful note, the coast is much more built up. The small, quiet fishing villages of the past are hard to find. As reported in our last blog post, we went to stay at Atacames, pictured below.
Then we went on a long day trip on bad roads to Mompiche and discovered a taste of the past in that sleepy village. Here's the extent of the village:
The men are still mostly fishing for a living.
The main fun in the late afternoon is co-ed soccer on the beach (not pictured) and other play, such as that of these four boys on an old surfboard.
5. Family relationships continue one generation after the next. Gene and Helen knew well the great-grandparents of Edison, our godchild, who is a Cayambi Indian. Over time, the members of this family have gotten more and more educated and their economic circumstances have steadily improved. Each generation grows taller, because of better nutrition, while they speak more Spanish and less Quechua. Edison dresses like a teenager almost anywhere in the world and learns much of the same material in school that Caleb is learning. Here's a picture of Edison and some of his family. From left to right: Edison's cousin Sally, Edison, me, Sally's mom Elena, Edison's mom Fanny (they're sisters), Gene, Segundo (Edison's grandfather), and Caleb.
Now here's something that hasn't changed: Fanny served us a wonderful traditional meal of guinea pig, potatoes, salad, and fresh juice. Caleb is getting good at eating guinea pig, which is a real skill !!
-Spee
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